Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt: A Modern Take on a Classic Gilt Dial

Daniel Roth Revives the Gilt Dial with a Modern Twist

Since LVMH revived Daniel Roth in 2023, collectors have eagerly followed the brand's return to its roots. The modern Extra Plat line, launched in 2025, pays homage to the ultra-thin watches of the early 1990s. Now, for Geneva Watch Days 2026, Daniel Roth introduces the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, a limited interpretation that combines the classic gilt dial technique with a contemporary black finish.

True Gilt Dial Construction

The defining feature of this new model is its dial, which uses a genuine gilt process rather than simple printing. A solid 5N rose gold dial is first decorated with vertical pinstripe guilloché on a rose engine. The indices and markings are then masked with varnish using a semi-automated pad printing process accurate to a hundredth of a millimetre. After multiple electroplating baths achieve a deep black hue, the varnish is dissolved, revealing the underlying gold in the engraved-looking numerals and markers. This technique creates a multidimensional effect that changes with light.

Case and Dimensions

The case retains the signature Daniel Roth double-ellipse shape, measuring 38.6mm in length, 35.5mm in width, and just 7.7mm in thickness. Crafted from 5N rose gold, it features a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, a sapphire display case back, and 30 metres of water resistance. The watch is paired with a black calfskin leather strap secured by an 18k rose gold pin buckle.

In-House Calibre DR002

Inside beats the Calibre DR002, developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the guidance of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. This shaped movement measures 31mm x 28mm and is only 3.1mm thick, fitting perfectly within the case. It operates at 4 Hz and offers a 65-hour power reserve. Decoration includes wide Geneva stripes, hand-bevelled edges, and polished angles.

Buying Considerations

At CHF 55,000, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt sits as a premium offering for collectors who appreciate traditional dial craftsmanship. Its black-and-gold combination offers a more contemporary look compared to previous Extra Plat models, while retaining the brand's historical design language. Given the limited production typical of such releases, interested buyers should contact Daniel Roth boutiques for availability.

Authenticity Note

As with any high-value timepiece, ensure you purchase from authorised retailers or reputable pre-owned dealers. Verify the reference number (DBBD04A1) and request the original warranty card and papers to confirm authenticity.